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Audio Technica AT2020 vs. Blue Yeti: A Comparative Review

Last Updated June 17, 2021

There has been a steady rise in the number of streamers, Youtubers and home studio set ups in recent years, as such microphones are invaluable when it comes to recording any form of media, whether be it a podcast, a livestream or music. A good microphone is an integral part of any streamer, Youtuber or podcaster’s inventory and can make or break the quality of the content. Read this article on Audio Technica AT2020 vs. Blue Yeti to find a comparison between the specs, quality and utility of the Audio Technica AT2020 and Blue Yeti.

There are many options on the market but there are two mics which provide great quality sound for a good price. They are the Audio Technica AT2020 and the Blue Yeti, both mics are in the similar price points and are both condenser type microphones, we will learn where they differ in design and what could make one of them a purchase for you.

Audio Technica AT2020 vs. Blue Yeti: Audio Technica Overview

Features:

Wide Dynamic Range
Custom made low-mass diaphragm for good frequency response and fantastic transient response.
Good price point

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The AT2020 comes from Audio-Technica, a notable Japanese company established in 1962. They are known for producing quality headphones and microphones made for professional and home use. The AT2020 is a professionally built microphone for home use. It has wonderful build quality and provides a clear, crisp sound.

The AT2020 is a mic with a cardioid polar pattern, which means that it will pick up sound directly in front of the mic, and not only that, it has quite a high SPL, so it is quite versatile when it comes to recording.

However, the AT2020 is a condenser microphone, so when you’re using it you’re going to need a phantom power source of 48V. The AT2020 has a 3-pin XLRM-type connector, which is common for microphones of this type.

The AT2020 is all black and of full metal construction. It has, for convenience marked upon it which side is the back, so it can be set up correctly for use. When bought, the mic comes with a stand mount for 5/8”-27 threaded stands with 5/8”-27 to 3/8”-16 adapter and a soft pouch for safe storage during transport.

Audio Technica AT2020 vs. Blue Yeti: Blue Yeti Overview

Features:

Tri capsule array allows for broadcast quality sound production.

4 pickup patterns for multiple uses.

USB connectors allow for plug and play right out of the box.

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The Blue Yeti is simple yet versatile microphone that’s made with creators in mind. As a USB mic, it doesn’t require any extra connections or software to get it up and running. The yeti is able to support up to four polar patterns for appropriate sound pickup in different situations.

Along with the standard cardioid recording mode, it comes with omnidirectional, bidirectional and stereo mode. With several different modes featured into one mic, the Yeti can be used for a wide variety of tasks.

It features a solid metal construction and has several knobs on it. Mainly, the mic can have a set of headphones attached to monitor the mics output and has a volume knob on the front to manage that sound and on the back it has a gain knob and a cardioid mode selector knob. It also features a mute button that is placed above the volume knob.

When you buy the Blue Yeti, you get the microphone itself, a nice metal desk stand and a long USB to USB-a cable. The Yeti can also be screwed into a standard mic stand and has the threads below it.

Pros and Cons:

Audio-Technica AT2020

Pros:

Cheap and Budget Friendly
Well Engineered with built to last quality.
Vocals and instruments sound good.
Stylish and classy design

Cons:

Does not come with stand.
Requires conversion box to use with computers.

Blue Yeti

Pros:

Comes with stand and long USB cable.
Ideal for home studio setup.
Four pickup patterns add versatility.

Cons:

Tends to pick up hissing sounds.
Sone of the controls is quite fragile.

Audio Technica AT2020 vs. Blue Yeti: A Comparative Look

Whilst both mics are condenser type, there are several factors which set either apart from one another. The first is the difference in the connectors and that can make things quite difficult.

The connector used on the AT2020 is a 3-pin XLR type, which is standard for most audio recording devices, however, this serves as a drawback for its intended use as in order to use it properly one must also buy additional equipment, mainly a phantom power supply box, or a conversion box. The Blue Yeti however, doesn’t and comes with a USB connector, allowing for a quick set up and immediate use.

Another factor that sets the AT2020 apart from the Blue Yeti is that it doesn’t come with too many accessories. Excluding the microphone, the AT2020 doesn’t come with any XLR connector wires, a stand or anything else. The Blue Yeti is prepackaged with all the necessary items to use it right out of the box.

Where the AT2020 stands above the Blue Yeti is audio quality and looks, though it features only one recording mode, but has a much higher bitrate and sample rate. The Blue Yeti has a 16bit bitrate and a 44.1kHz to 48kHz sample rate, which is below the AT2020 as those can be set by the interface its being used with. In terms of looks, the AT2020 stands above the Blue Yeti because of its sleek look, making it look professional and clean, whereas the Yeti looks bulbous, especially with that large bottom housing.

In defense of the Blue Yeti, it is far more versatile than the AT2020 as it features 4 different recording modes, a headphone jack for monitoring mic audio in real time and is also much, much easier to operate than the AT2020.

Audio Technica AT2020 vs. Blue Yeti: What Do They Mean as an Upgrade?

So, you’re thinking of getting a new mic because your old one’s coming to the end of its life cycle and you’re on a bit of budget? Which one do you get? The Yeti or the AT2020?

Firstly, the sound quality on the Yeti is rather ordinary, it isn’t bad by any means but that’s all that it’s got going for it, that it doesn’t sound too bad. The stand it comes with is nice and so are the extra modes which are quite useful if you plan to record more than one voice or different sounds.

The main, standout features of the Blue Yeti is that it doesn’t require any extra equipment. As an upgrade from a similar device, it provides something of a diminishing return but in terms of the price point and accessories you’re getting, it’s well worth it.

The AT2020 is a little different in regards to the Blue Yeti. It doesn’t have the same features or accessory list as the Yeti but it performs better. The main let down of the AT2020 is the need for an audio deck and XLR cables but other than that, there isn’t really much needed.

The sound quality on the AT2020 is studio quality and perfect if you’re recording a song or musical instruments, or a voice over. It picks up sounds perfectly and crisply, with almost no extra noises.

Speaking in terms of an upgrade the Audio-Technica AT2020 is quite worth it, but it’s only if you have a bit of budget to play with.

Final Verdict

Audio-Technia AT2020: Like most of Audio-Techinca’s devices, the AT2020 is a wonderful microphone if you want to record videos or music in a home studio, as it can perform just as well as other, costlier mics in its class. Between the two mics it’s also the least pricy, making it perfect for anyone on a budget. However, its low price comes with a few pitfalls. You aren’t provided the cables needed to connect the mic to an audio box and even if you do have the cables or audio box, you need to have a stand to mount it on to use it correctly.

Blue Yeti: The Yeti is made by a company that got its start by making mics geared towards content creators and whilst lacking a little in the sound department when compared to the AT2020, it doesn’t lack in any features.

Having 4 different pickup modes, it’s able to work well in all sorts of environments and this is without mentioning that it’s a USB mic as well. Though a bit more expensive than the AT2020, the Yeti doesn’t lack in any accessories. Able to be used right out of the box and coming with a stand, it proves to be more budget friendly in the long run.

Conclusion

Both these mics are great in their own regards. Both mics are very close with each other in terms of overall quality and versatility, but the Yeti ends up coming on top by just a bit. Can sound quality be sacrificed for accessories? That’s for you to decide.

\You can also read: Best Headphones with Microphone for PC

Tube Amps VS. Solid State: Guitar 101

Last Updated May 1, 2021

Every industry leader in guitar manufacturing uses either solid-state technology, vacuum tube technology, or a blend of both to build amps. Some amps feature integrated digital technology to reproduce the sound of different amps, which can be solid-state or tube. Selecting the best amp for your guitar? It can get pretty confusing. We’ve done the research on Tube Amps VS. Solid State to let help you.

There are a few interchangeable terms you should be familiar with. When discussing tubers, the term “valve” might also appear, especially if British amplifiers such as Vox or Marshall is concerned. There is virtually no difference between valves and tubes.

The important thing here is differentiating between a tube amp and a solid-state amp. Let’s take a look.

A Glimpse into the History of Guitar Amplifiers

Tubes have been used in music since Thomas Edison lived. Before the World War II, tubes were an indispensable part of the design of electronic amplifiers. This included telephone, radio, and early television technology.

Transistor technology was invented in the late ‘40s, and over the next thirty years, most of the tube-dependent systems made the transition to transistors.

Interestingly enough, guitar amplifiers are a rare case where the old is better than the new. Meaning tubes continue to be a better option than transistors.

Tube Amps VS. Solid State: Differences Between Tube Amps and Solid State

Tube Amps VS. Solid State: Guitar 101 — Photo by: Hoai Qua

Tube amps came first. They are driven by voltage whereas a solid-state amp uses current across the output devices to function. Voltage cannot drive a speaker by itself, thus the need for output transformers. The majority of stereo tube amps feature three big, heavy objects, generally at the back. Those are two output transformers and a power transformer (one for each specific channel) that transform the voltage to current.

Generally, a solid-state amp includes a single power transformer but no output transformer. With that said, a tube and a solid-state output transistor achieve the same targets. Here, the difference is that one does it encapsulated in silicone with current while the other performs it from a glass vacuum using voltage.

Time for the big question. Do they sound different? They do. However, some solid-state amps have a strong tube-like sound and some companies will intentionally make their tube amps produce a more solid-state sound (for power).

In comparison to a tube amp, a solid-state amp requires lesser maintenance and upkeep.

Returning to the sound, we would like to mention that tube amps do feature a controlled and sound bass. There’s a popular myth that they can’t and this is far from the truth. Like with any other product, everything has its distinct color and voicing. What are the general benefits of each?

Tubes have greater texture and more realism in the instruments and vocals, a rich midrange; a larger sense of bloom, if you would. Solid-state amps offer more watts for each dollar, better detail, and faster sound. Keep in mind that these are all generalizations.

If your system is somewhat fatiguing or harsh, chances are, you would love having a tube amp. If the system is sluggish, flat, or sounds too soft, on the other hand, a high-quality solid-state amp could save it. One other important factor is speaker load. Although rarer in today’s market, some speakers need a super low impedance driving capacity plus tons of power. Under these circumstances, you would be better off with a solid-state amp.

Alternatively, if the speakers are of standard efficiency and have an average impedance curve, get a tube amp to elevate your audio system.

Tube Amps VS. Solid State Amp: Which One Is Better for You?

When you’re trying to fix on one, consider your requirements. You should be realistic – practical about your priorities. We understand that it’s easy to get swayed by seeing your favorite guitar use one or seeing people give their opinion in forums, but in the end, your tone comes from you. Here’s the bitter truth: A lot of the times, the “aura” resonating off a particular amplifier is nothing more than the hype built around it. They could simply be overrated.

In this case, you have to let your wallet make the decision. Unless you have some extra cash you can splurge on a top-notch amp, you could get a budget option that works fine. For young players who are still getting into the industry, beginner-friendly affordable options are lifesavers.

Some other considerations that may help you make the decision:

A Tube Amp Is the Way to Go When:

You can perform the upkeep: Tubes are tricky to handle. These are simply filaments like light bulbs, which also means that they can cause signal or noise loss or burn out.
You think it will add value to your playing sessions
Tube tone is what you were looking for.
It’s within your budget.

Go for the Solid-State Amp If:

You don’t want to burn a hole in your pocket by buying an amp.
You’re a garage or bedroom hobby player.
You need a dependable rig as a gigging musician.
You’ve tried tube amps but the solid-state amp calls to you.

The Final Verdict

To us, tube amps reign superior. But then again, this is our perception.

There is an entire community of hobby players who wouldn’t trade their solid-state amps for anything. And there’s nothing wrong with that.

You can find a few great tube amp options with great price tags on the market today, so you’re not essentially going to go bankrupt to get the perfect tube tone. When it comes to gear for your guitar, it’s best to do what makes you happy. Different players are accustomed to different kind of amps, and they know how to create excellent sound from every kind of gear. What we’re saying is that you can go against the grain and create something beautiful out of it if you wanted to.

Hopefully, you now have a clear idea about Tube Amps VS. Solid State . Figure out your needs and go ahead with that.

You can also read: Apple AirPods: Answering Calls and Making Them

Apple AirPods: Answering Calls and Making Them

Last Updated May 1, 2021

The entire world knows about the Apple AirPods. These wireless earpieces from Apple have revolutionized how people listen to music. Now that there are no wires to detangle, convenience becomes the primary feature. AirPods as well as the AirPods Pro include state-of-the-art integrated touch controls. Each earpiece features beamforming microphones which let you answer incoming and make calls while you have the earphones on. You can also disconnect the call once you’re done.

For this article, we are going to give you a thorough guide on how to answer calls with AirPods alongside making calls and hanging up. You will be able to continue your conversation hands-free once you get the hang of it.

How to Make, Answer, and End Calls with Apple AirPods

When Apple uses the term “true wireless” to define their AirPods, they mean it. Just by touching the buds sitting in your ear, you can start and stop music, adjust the volume, and answer calls too.

However, how to answer calls with AirPods will differ from one version to another. As of this writing, four unique variants of the AirPods are available on the market, and all come with their special set of capabilities. Disclaimer: For all of these methods to work, you will need to pair the AirPods with a functioning iPhone.

Make a Call and Answer with AirPods Max

Place a call to a number: Say “Hey Siri,” and make sure Siri is activated. Now, say the name of the person you wish to make a call to: “Call Anna’s mobile.” Alternatively, press and old the Digital Crown. You should hear a chime; make the request after that.
Answer or disconnect a call: Press the Digital Crown.
Reject an incoming call and directly send it to voicemail: Double-press on Digital Crown.
Put first call on hold and answer a second one: To answer a new call while you’re already on one, press the Digital Crown. There are two routes you can take after this: 1. Press the Digital Crown to switch between calls, or, 2. Double-press the Digital Crown to disconnect the present call to revert to the one on hold.

Note: Volume can be adjusted while on call. Simply turn the Digital Crown.

Make and answer calls with Apple AirPods Pro

Make a call: Summon Siri with a “Hey Siri,” and say the usual “Call [NAME]’s mobile.”

Note: Either of the AirPods can be configured to call Siri when you press down on the Force Sensor. The Force is located at the upper edge of the stem. It’s easy to find when you have the AirPods in your ear.

Answer or disconnect a call: Press the Force Sensor. Either of the AirPods will work.
Reject an incoming call and directly send it to voicemail: Double-press on the Force Sensor.
Put first call on hold and answer a second one: To answer a new call while you’re already on one, press the Force Sensor. After this, you can do any of the following: 1. Press the Force Sensor to switch between the calls, or, 2. To disconnect the present call and switch to the held one, double-press on the Force Sensor.

Make and answer calls with 2nd Generation AirPods

Make a call: Summon Siri with a “Hey Siri,” and say the usual “Call [NAME]’s mobile.”

Note: Either of the AirPods can be configured to call Siri when with a double tap.

Answer or disconnect a call: Double-tap any of the AirPods.
Put first call on hold and answer a second one: To answer a new call while you’re already on one, double-tap on either of the AirPods. Repeat the process if you want to switch between calls.

Make and answer calls with 1st Generation AirPods

Make a call: Double-tap any one of the AirPods to call out to Siri, wait till you hear a chime and then make the request.
Answer or disconnect a call: Double-tap any of the AirPods.
Put first call on hold and answer a second one: To answer a new call while you’re already on one, double-tap on either of the AirPods. Repeat the process if you want to switch between calls.

Customizing Your Apple AirPods

The AirPods aren’t any generic piece of earphones that do the job just for the sake of it. No, they offer you the entire experience. That starts from incredible audio quality to personalization and tweaked settings. Here’s how you can set the microphone to one earpiece at a time or both. This only works if you have a 1st, 2nd generation AirPods or the AirPods Pro.

First, go to Settings and then Bluetooth. Find the “i” beside the AirPods options and select that. Tap Microphone and now you can choose an option.

Keeping it on Automatic would mean that either of the AirPods will function as a mic. Or, you can choose a specific one, like the left or right and only that will act as the microphone. Remember that when you choose Always Right or Always Left, your preferred AirPods becomes the mic even after you remove it from your ears or place it in the case.

As mentioned earlier, the AirPods Max don’t come with this feature. Instead, it offers other exciting features like Automatic Head Detection.

How to Get Apple AirPods to Announce Caller ID

If you get a call on your iPhone and have your AirPods are connected, you would typically have to catch a glimpse of the iPhone or Apple Watch to know who’s calling. But did you know your AirPods can announce it for you? Here’s how to enable this feature:

Launch the Settings app on your iPhone.
Select “Phone” on the list.
Under the “Calls” heading, press Announce Calls.
Select “Headphones Only.”

Conclusion

Now that you know how to answer calls with Apple AirPods, your user experience with the iPhone and AirPods should be even better. Enjoy hands-free, uninterrupted calls all the time.

You can also read: What to Do When Your AirPods Sound Muffled

Improving the Sound Quality of Blue Yeti

Last Updated April 30, 2021

There are faults in everything, no matter what. When it comes to the Blue Yeti microphone, one of the industry favorites when it comes to vocal output, the results aren’t always stellar. We’re talking about muffled sound like you’re stuck inside a barrel recording the sound, or underwater. Just pure horror.

We have good news and bad news. The bad news is that this is a significantly common complaint. On a brighter note, you can upgrade the sound the Blue Yeti makes.

Why is your Blue Yeti not performing up to the mark? The most common reasons include equipment conflict and user error.

Listed are all of the reasons alongside how to make Blue Yeti sound better in every occasion.

1. User Error: Choosing Wrong Settings

This is the number one reason why users report bad audio output from their Blue Yeti microphones.

If this is your first time handling an equipment like this, it’s easy to mess the settings up and potentially harm the entire recording. The Blue Yeti has four interesting (and complex for rookies_ sound recording modes. Below are the four recording modes and what they should be used for to ensure best results:

Cardioid: Our personal favorite, the cardioid setting is best for singing, live streaming, recording your instruments, and podcasting. This mode only picks up the sound coming in straight in front of the mic.
Stereo: Stereo mode records on both the right and left channels and aims to create a natural, more “realistic” tone. Ideal for recording a choir or acoustic guitar.
Omnidirectional: As the name suggests, omnidirectional setting allows the microphone to record sound from all directions. Best for multi-person interviews, live band performance, or shooting things in a busy environment for your YouTube channel (given you want to showcase the entire scenery).
Bidirectional: This mode picks up sound coming “bidirectionally” – from two directions, front and back. You’ll want to use this for two-person interviews.

It’s possible that you’re using the wrong mode for your particular recording activity. Check if changing the mode helps makes the sound quality better. This is where the issue lies most of the time, especially with newbies who are still getting the hang of a mic.

Improving the Sound Quality of Blue Yeti — Photo credit- TheDigitalDigest

2. User Error: Bad Location

Again, most of these user errors are performed by rookies since they have np prior experience with recording equipment. If you’re a beginner using this mic, you may not be aware of how far away or close you have to position the Blue Yeti to get best sound.

Placing it too far away from the face when speaking leaves you with the kind of sound we mentioned at the start of this article – like you’re inside a barrel. This is what gives that unwanted underwater sound effect to the recording.

On the other hand, put the mic too close to your face when recording and you get a little static crackling in the background as well as the occasional “pop.”

The ideal position for your microphone is 1” to 2” away from your mouth or the source of the sound.

It’s best to perform a few test recording to locate the exact sweet spot, but this is the general best position. Ideally, keep the Blue Yeti stationary, preferably strapped to a mic stand so it doesn’t move around or pick up surrounding noises.

3. Equipment Problems: Poor Connection

Tried the two solutions mentioned and nothing has helped? Still getting the awful garbled, crackling sound? This is when your errors start and we start considering that there is an issue occurring with the microphone.

First things first, make sure the microphone is directly connected to your desktop computer’s USB port. There needs to be a direct connection.

Get to a different computer (if possible) and test the microphone so you can isolate if there’s any issue with your past computer’s USB port.

How to make Blue Yeti sound better if the problem stems from the USB cable provided with the microphone? Switch it out.

If you’re using a Mac, a PRAM reset might end your concerns as well. Sometimes, a Mac device refuses to connect properly to an exterior device. This is when a PRAM reset can help bring things back on track.

4. Equipment Problems: Software Incompatibility

After you’ve exhausted every single way with which you could allegedly fix the muffled sound of your Blue Yeti, it’s time to consider that there might be simple clash happening between the software and hardware. You may have a recording software that’s incompatible with the Blue Yeti.

Open up your DAW or recording software to make sure the microphone is listed as the “microphone” or “input source” in the software settings.

One unique issue Macbook users have reported is the Mac OS automatically selecting the in-built microphone every time as the input source. They would have to manually select their Blue Yeti each time they opened the software. It can be annoying since it’s that repetitive, but it’s a simple solution.

Furthermore, your choice of software might just need a driver update. This, however, seems to be a common issue with Windows OS. If you’re a Windows user, make sure all the drivers have been installed and updated from time to time.

Final Word

As you can see, there are multiple answers to “How to make Blue Yeti sound better.” And all of these originating due to common errors here and there. By trying out the troubleshooting tips mentioned above, you can expect to resolve the poor audio quality problems and improve your recording experience.

That being said, if none of the tips are working out for you, then there may actually be a conflict with the microphone itself. Make sure to reach out to Blue’s customer service with your dud product and hopefully they will assist you.

You may also like to read: Blue Microphones – Yeti Pro Review

A Brief Guide to Music Terminology: Gain, Level, Loudness, and Volume

Last Updated April 30, 2021

Let’s say this is your first time working with an amp or a mixer. You need to make the audio louder, so you check for the settings. Chances are, you will encounter a set of knob or an occasional fader with labels like: trim, master, gain, and volume.

Your brain makes a sharp flip upside-down and you have no clue what to do, so you casually turn up the knob that reads “volume.” Here’s the kicker. You may not be doing what would have helped the audio the most.

That brings up an important question: Which one do you reach for and why? Today, we will be covering everything about related to this – audio 101. If you want to get better sound from your equipment, it’s essential to know these. So, what exactly is audio gain? How is it different from volume, or level, or loudness? Keep reading to find out.

Gain

Defining gain is a bit harder than the others, primarily because it’s frequently used in places outside the audio world. In the simplest terms, it means an increase in a certain value. For instance, you can have voltage gain, current gain, or power gain – all of which is increasing in their respective values.

Generally, when musicians refer to gain, it means transmission gain – the increase in a signal’s power. This increase is mostly expressed in terms of decibels or dB. This can be a surge in the raw signal from your microphone or guitar prior to it travelling to another electronic component. For the inquisitive, this is how you calculate gain.

Gain = 10 x log (Power Out ÷ Power In) in dB.

Use of Gain

For any purpose that isn’t rocket science, you will normally see one gain control in 2 positions. One would be your PA or mixer board, and the other would be on the guitar amp. As far as electronics are concerned, both of them mean the same but serve different purposes.

The gain is situated at the top of the board on a mixer. This is the control that will boost the signal, bringing it to a sufficient level so the other controls can function properly.

You have to keep this level high enough so it brings up the signal’s level, but no too high since that might give you distortions or clippings in the signals. For this reason, many boards are equipped with a Pre-Fader Listen (PFL) button. This buttons allows you to view the true strength of the signal by checking the LEDs.

The gain’s primary goal on a guitar amp is to create distortion. We would suggest you turn the gain down. Your drive or gain is going to control the power with which the signal hits your preamp.

Mark this stage as this is where the “overdrive” generates from since you’re literally overdriving the preamp stage. Adjust this for tonal purposes and then work with the volume or level control to bring the signal to the desired volume.

Yes, we also love an electrifying solo, but there’s really no need to keep the gain at 100 the entire time. Rookies will step into the recording studio thinking they will strum up a storm only to have the specialists on the other side of the glass frown at them as they take the distortion down to a five or six.

Volume

You can’t understand sound amplification by only knowing what is sound gain. Volume is another crucial aspect and it means a signal’s power signal. So with each crank of the “master volume” knob you’re simply increasing the power an amp uses to increase the signal.

This is quite an ambiguous term as it’s used in a variety of places, generally to refer the actual sound your ears perceive, which isn’t totally correct.

Level

Rather vaguely, level is used to define the sound’s magnitude. More specifically, SPL (Sound Pressure Level) is used to explain sound waves. The term SPL is calculated using the log of the rms sound pressure – with the measured sound being related to a reference value.

In easier word, we make a measurement scale where zero is the human hearing’s lowest threshold. The scale is defined in dB and extends till 130 dB, which is also the threshold of pain for the average human ear.

Loudness

Although similar to level and volume, loudness is a whole another term we have to discuss. Since human ears can’t hear every frequency existing in the same level, perceived loudness changes as we go up and down in the string. The lower frequencies, such as the bass guitar (40 to 220 Hz) requires more sound pressure to convince us that it’s as loud as something at 1 kHz.

Let’s now be introduced to “phon,” the term used to express loudness. Phone contour varies from one dB level to another. The 120 phon contour doesn’t need as much boost in lower frequencies as much as the 10 phon contour. This is mostly due to the shape of the ear. Human ears have been conditioned to pick up 3 to 4 kHz range the best – conveniently existing on the higher end on human speech. If you somehow lost it, it would get pretty difficult for you to communicate with people.

In Conclusion

Our aim with this article was to get you introduced to the unique and diverse of music terminology and how to use it in the proper context. We’ve answered questions like “What is audio gain?” and “How is loudness different from volume?”

Of course, there are many more things you will have to and you will pick up along the way, but these were the basics. Every word has an idea associated to it. So, instead of getting hung up on a particular world, try to amalgamate the concepts into one big picture.

You may also like to read: Best Thunderbolt Audio Interfaces